Sunday, August 6, 2017
How to Tape Your Handlebars
First tings first if you commute everyday you are going to what to do your own maintnance. You have to learn how to maintain every bicycle like a bike shop mechanic, you just have to learn how to work on your bike. Having a bike stand makes working on your bike exponentional easier. You don't have to get a nice top of the line, just something that suspends the bike from the gound. This this the portable bike stand from Feedback Sports it's portable so you can fold it up and put it in your closet when you are not using it.
1. Music: Toughies from Lawerence.
2. Bar Tape: Find what's comfortable for you. The cheap stuff is fine if you just ride a bike on the weekends; but if you ride everyday, you are going to want tougher tape. I chose Zipp Brands, Cyclo Cross tape. It's thick and has a rubberized grip.
3. Goo Gone: It gets the old bar tape sticky residue off the bar easy.
4. Isopropyl Alcohol: Goo Gone leaves a oily residue, this gets the Goo Gone of and leaves it handlebars nice and clean.
5. Screw Driver: you will need this to get the bar ends off. I have the Velox Brand plugs that have an expander. You also need them if you have to press in style.
6. Sissors: To cut the end of the tape off.
7. Dumonde Lite Oil: When I have the tape off, I like to use this opportunity to get some oil in the housing so the cable slides nice and smooth. Since all modern day housing is lined, you don't need to. It's some people's opinion you should not, because oil can attract dirt. No oil attracts no dirt. but dirt gets in there anyway. There is a distinction to be made here because you are not putting a lubricant in new housing, but rather extending the performance of old cables and housing. I use Dumonde Lite. They call it liquid plastic, so it attract significantly less dirt than oil. To extend the life of cables and
housing in the past I have used light oils, and I find Dumonde to work exponentially longer. Just for the record I do put it in new housing and I find it makes to cables run smoother, and improves derailleur performance. My derailleur housing is not routed underneath my bar tape. Just have the brake housing.
8.Friction Tape: Friction tape is like electrical tape with a cloth mesh embedded in it to hold the housing and bar
tape and more solid. You don't need it, but I like it.
9. Electrical tape: Friction tape tends to be sticky on both sides. I finish with a couple rounds the end is not sticky and it looks better. The best kind of electrical tape is 3-M, "33". It's got the yellow core. I found the so called "Contractor" grade's tends to become unsecure over time. It's a little more, but worth it.
When taking your bar tape off you should take these out first.
Now take the old bar tape off
Paul "Touring" cantilever brakes. Solid, effective, and easy to clean and adjust
A lot of bikes these days have the cables routed through the frame. Internal routing does give the bicycle a nicer look, but I find internal routing over complicates things. Every bicycle is different.
You can wrap the bars in such a way that it covers the brake lever straps, but I don't like the extra bulk around the lever. Zipp tape does not come with the little strips, but rather they leave a bit on the end of the tape without glue for you to cut off.
want to finish going away from you, so the tendency is to tighten the tape, rather that loosen it.
So for the right side (Drive side) you will wrap the tape going clockwise. The left side (Non-Drive) mirror image counter clockwise.